Muzzles are amazing, versatile tools that help us keep our dogs and others around us safe.
REASONS TO MUZZLY
Safety - muzzles make your dog the safest around and are a great tool for dogs who struggle with using aggressive behaviors or if they struggle with fear or are in pain at the vet’s or groomer.
If you are at all unsure what your dog may do in any situation, muzzling your dog will make them the safest around because they are limited with what they can do with their teeth.
*Tho not THE solution for aggressive behaviors, muzzles will help you work your dog safely through the behavior modification process.
My Luna tore her ACL in 2020 and had to go into the vet to get blood drawn and her bum wing poked and prodded without her emotional support person (me) inside with her. Tho she’s NEVER displayed negative behaviors with humans, I still muzzled her because of all the stressors she went through.
Medical Procedures - Muzzles can eliminate and/or support the cone of shame, preventing your dog from licking or biting wounds/ stitches.
Pica or Eating things off the ground - PICA is an eating disorder when dogs (or people!) eat non food items.
A muzzle can prevent your dog from ingesting things they shouldn’t.
Life goes sideways sometimes and even if your dog doesn’t normally “need” it, I believe conditioning your dog to wear a muzzle is a great idea.
WHAT MUZZLE SHOULD I BUY?
There are SOOO many options on the market it can be overwhelming.
Picking a muzzle comes down to what am I using it for and will it fit my dog?
Learn more about some different muzzles from Ray Allen here.
SAFETY. DURABILITY. COMFORT.
My preferences are a comfortable muzzle that my dog cannot get out of or bite through.
Safety & Durability
Strong, Not affected by water or saliva, Safe to wear for dog, *Prevents entry of handler fingers into bite area - behavior issue dependent, most of the time a basket muzzle works well, but for some cases a more closed muzzle is needed
Can be cleaned and disinfected regularly
Secure Fit - 3 strap muzzle or muzzles with a collar strap or loop.
Comfortable
Light weight
Allows dog to breathe normally, even during high stress
Does not obstruct vision
For most pet dogs, Plastic Basket muzzles are my go to.
Easy to clean, condition, are adjustable to fit most faces, are sturdy enough for strong dogs and can be comfortably worn for longer periods - they have room for your dog to breathe and pant and even drink through.
*Important Note *
Why do you use Baskerville in your videos, but don’t recommend them?
I have used Baskerville Basket muzzles for years (and will continue to use the older version). The new Ultra version (currently the only option from them on the market) has a plastic quick release snap for owner convenience that is a possible fault source or weak spot - aka makes it less secure and I prefer safety over convenience.
I look for the buckle straps rather than the plastic quick release connectors and the ability to attach the muzzle to your dog’s collar.
A great, solid alternative is this one from Leerburg.
For serious human aggression I recommend and require a more bite proof muzzle like these - Jafco, Ray Allen or Red Line.
Baskerville & other similar plastic basket muzzles are not bite proof.
MEASURING YOUR DOG FOR A MUZZLE
*Tho I go over measuring, make sure to double check the manufacturer's recommendations to get the correct fit.
You might think it’s easier to simply order a muzzle designated for your dog’s breed.
Buying and sizing a muzzle is similar to us buying clothing or shoes - just because it’s our “size”, doesn’t mean it will fit properly based on our individual measurements.
I advocate for taking the time to measure properly because inside breed standards there can be enough variances that simply ordering by your dog’s breed will result in the wrong sized muzzle.
The correct fit is crucial for comfort and safety - too small and it hurts, too big and your dog may not be able to see over it or will be able to get it off.
If you don’t have a fabric (tailors) tape measure, grab a piece of string then measure with a ruler or regular tape measure.
Muzzle Length Measurement
Measuring from the base of the muzzle (corner/ just below their eye), along the top, to the tip of their nose, then add about 1” longer for comfort. Choose a muzzle that is slightly longer (finger’s width) than your dog’s length measurement to prevent it from pressing uncomfortably up against your dog’s nose or eyes.
So we want the muzzle to ride about ½” in front of the eyes and ½” in front of the nose.
Muzzle Girth Measurement
Start at the ½” point below your dog’s eyes and measure the actual circumference of your dog’s snout at the jaw.
This is your starting point - your pup needs more room to be able to open their mouth and pant so we add 2 -3 “ for larger breeds and for smaller dogs you may only need about 1 - 2”
Click Photo for downloadable PDF!
SPECIALTY FITMENTS
For our squishy faced breeds (brachycephalic) like Bulldogs (& Frenchies!), Bostons, Pekingese and pugs with the shorter almost non-existent snouts, these mesh or silicon short snout muzzles work great!
Hello Clarice"
There are also your dogs with big, wide heads and jaws but shorter snouts like Cane Corso (technically brachycephalic), Boxers and Bullies (Pitties, Staffies etc.) who have wide heads/ larger circumference jaws and shorter snouts may be in between sizes.
Go with your best judgement - Snag two and see which one offers better safety and security.
The plastic basket muzzles also offer the ability to heat and adjust/ widen the muzzle for a bitter fit.
I also wrap potential friction points with yarn to prevent irritation/ scratches.
Click photo (later!) for muzzle wrap kitten fail!
MUZZLE CONDITIONING
Muzzle conditioning is super simple tho for some dogs it can take time and perseverance.
** Regardless of how much conditioning you do, dogs, understandably, will not like having a muzzle on their face and may change their behavior while wearing it.
The goal is to create a positive association with the muzzle and help your dog tolerate wearing it when required.
Grab your dog’s daily meal, their leash and a chair to get started!
*You may need to fast your dog a meal or two to build food drive.
Remember! While conditioning the muzzle, this is the only way your dog will eat!
Phase 1 - Put your nose in the Muzzle
Adjust the straps so they’re out of the way.
Hold the muzzle in your hand with your palm cupping the mouth hole and drop some kibble in
Offer the muzzle to your dog
As soon as their nose goes into the muzzle, say “Yes!” and allow your dog to eat out of the muzzle
Repeat several times or until your dog is targeting the muzzle and putting their nose in the muzzle seamlessly.
Phase 2 - Name It
Hold the muzzle with food in your hand and say “Muzzle”
Offer the muzzle to your dog
As soon as their nose goes into the muzzle, say “Yes!” and allow your dog to eat the food and remove their head
Repeat about 10 -15 times
Phase 3 - Strap It
Adjust the straps back to normal
Hold the muzzle with food in your hand, say “Muzzle”
As your dog eats the food, pull the straps around their head to simulate fastening the muzzle.
say “Yes!”, remove the muzzle and pay
Your dog will be getting paid twice
Repeat about 10 times
After several reps, bucks the straps, say “Yes” and pay a couple of times through the muzzle
Remove the muzzle and repeat
Phase 4 - Walk or train in muzzle to build duration
Start by moving around in the muzzle and reinforcing/ paying every few steps so your dog has something to focus on other than the muzzle.
Move away from your dog, say their name, blow kisses or add a little leas pressure to get them to move towards you.
Once they get to you, say "Yes" and pay!
Continue in different environments and contexts, adding bigger challenges (distractions & triggers) as they succeed!
🔻 Muzzle Sizing Printable 🔻